Perhaps not, but the second iteration is much closer, I think. I've not woven in the ends or put on the trim yet, but it's done enough to see that it works.

For those not up on the odd names we give these things, "animal cracker hat" is what many of us have been calling the hat worn in a scene in the third Harry Potter film The Prisoner of Azkaban. Towards the beginning of the film, the character of Ron Weasley is sitting with his friends in the Gryffindor Tower, and they're eating candy and such. Ron has an animal cracker and roars like a lion. He's wearing this hat.

So, to put it all in one place:

First off, here's a still to remind everyone of what the original looks like (yes, it's been lightened and blown up and tweaked in an effort to see the ear flaps. And no, you still can't see them.):


Here is the previous hat I made (now deservedly frogged):


Here is the previous chart that doesn't work:


Here is the revised chart, which does. And the chart is in 3 color variations, no less!:


And here is the 2nd iteration using the new chart and different ear flaps:



ETA Here is the 2nd hat completed, in indirect natural light. The top tassle used 24" long strands while the ear flap tassles used 26" long strands. Also, a green version, using Turkish Olive for the main color instead of Chianti. It's a smaller size, being the 20-22" version with 48st, and fits the 22" mannequin head much better. It's still deep enough to stay on, however.:



First off, the new chart works. The second decrease is a little disconcerting because you have to decrease the first and last stitch together at the end of the row, which means the first stitch gets worked twice. However, it doesn't matter at all since it's worked in the round. Just knit into the row below for the first stitch and remember to move whatever you're using to mark the start of the row over to the next stitch to the left. The hat looks a little deep on the mannequin, but that's largely because I made a larger size. It now fits me quite comfortably without threatening to pop off at the least provocation, and without feeling tight. The proportions are fairly accurate for the film hat, although it could probably lose another row or two in the crown. This is easily done for a smaller size.

I'm not entirely sure about the size of the ear flaps. I think the length is good, but perhaps they should be an inch or so wider. Currently, they're about 3" wide before being stretched out by wear. They stretch out a bit on top when worn, which gives it a more gradual angle which looks better. It'd be clearer if the mannequin head were larger. I've also been debating whether or not they should be stockinette, with a bit of curl to them. Ron's knitted goods are all a little slapdash, and ear flaps which are held somewhat flat only by the thickness of the yarn seems like something which might happen. Without having a clear view of them, however, I'll stick with the ones shown which are much less haphazard looking.

OK, I used Brown Sheep Lamb's Pride Bulky in colors Chianti, Sunburst Gold, Creme, Bulldog Blue, and Red Baron. The main color takes up a little less than half a skein. Everything else is a variable small amount. I would have preferred to do film colors as that particular shade of green is high in my list of favorite colors and Chianti is not, but the green and plum are both backordered. As it is, I went with the color palatte I did because that's all I have, and the dark blue worked better as an accent than as a main considering the other colors I have. The colors are truer in the picture of the first hat I made, all the colors are the same, merely moved around. (At least I have the color charts now. Yay for in person color charts!)

I used US#9 and US#11 circular needles using a shortening technique because I don't have size 11 dpns. The gauge I got on both needles was about 2.85st/inch with a difference in row gauge. The garter stitch row gauge for the ear flaps on 9s was 6r/inch and a solid color stockinette swatch came in at 4r/inch for the 11s. The hat is worked with negative ease meaning that the finished hat is smaller in circumference when it is folded up than when it's worn. After stretching out a bit, my finished hat is about 20-21" in circumference. Note, the gauge is somewhat flexible. Just do the math and figure out how many repeats to do. Keep in mind that your hat may be tighter or looser (as mine is) because of how your tension changes while doing fair isle colorwork.

I made what I would call a 22-24" head size. This called for 56st or 7 repeats of the pattern and the decreases worked as shown in the chart. As the chart notes, 6 repeats (48st) should comfortably fit a 20-22" size. If it seems too deep for a smaller size, I recommend taking out up to 3 rows between the first and second decrease in the solid area after the gold cross.

Pattern
Ear flaps: approx. 3" wide on top and 3.5" long.
To change the length of the ear flap, increase or decrease the number of rows in the first section, prior to the decreases. To change the width, add or decrease in increments of 2, and begin decreases a row earlier for each pair of stitches added.

Using the size 9 needles (or whatever is necessary to get gauge) and some scrap yarn, invisible/provisional cast on 9st.
R1-14: work 14r garter stitch, slipping the first stitch of every row after the first row.
R15: sl1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k (=7st)
R16-18: work 3r in garter stitch, continuing to slip the first stitch of every row.
R19: sl1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k (=5st)
R20: sl11, k3tog (centered), k1 (=3st)
R21: k3tog (centered) (=1st)
bring yarn end through loop and secure.

Make 2.

Joining ear flaps and casting on for the crown:
Decide the number of repeats of the pattern, in this case 7 repeats =56st. Decide where to place the ear flaps. In this case, I'm working 24st for the front of the hat, 9 ear flap st, 14st, 9 ear flap st = 56. This places the front edge of the earflaps just slightly in front of the midpoint of the hat.

Using the US#9.
Pick up and knit across the purl side of the provisional cast-on for one ear flap, discard the scrap yarn. Backward loop cast on the stitches in between, and then knit across the purl side of the provisional cast-on for the other ear flap. Backward loop cast on the remaining stitches and join to work in the round.

Switch to US#11 or whatever is needed to get gauge (2.85st/4r per inch).

Work in MC for 4 rows stockinette and continue with row 5 of the chart. Finish by threading yarn through the remaining stitches and weaving in all ends, making sure to leave the piece flexible enough to stretch. For each tassle, cut a 26-28" strand of each yarn. Bundle each set of 5 yarns together and fold in half. Pull the loop of one bundle through the tip of one ear flap, and pull the end through the loop to form what I believe is technically called a girth hitch (also called a lark's head or lark's foot knot). Anchor the third bundle by threading the loop through the last row at the top of the crown. Very loosely braid each bundle and then tie a knot (an overhand knot) about 2-3 inches from the end.


So, now I have a hat and it's not something I can wear because I look utterly foolish in it, especially given the color and my hair. I'm not entirely sure what to do with it, and I'd sell it if I could. *sigh* The really dumb thing is I want to try it again in green....

Later I've added a completed hat pic, all ends woven in and tassles added.

Note, a child size (18-20") should be possible by reducing it to 5 repeats, and reducing the ear flaps a bit.

Incidentally, I found the yarn to be extremely soft. Softer than the worsted weight version of the same yarn, it seems. Also, because the cut of the hat is so high, it barely touches skin at any point. So it's not an itchy hat. I found the hat extremely comfortable the times I tried it on, especially since the high back clears my hair (an important consideration). I may well actually make myself one in green whenever the yarn comes in. Of course, I'll still look like a loon (hats do not look good on me), but that's neither here nor there.

ETA again: To almost center the pattern on a 56st piece, start with st2 of the pattern instead of st1. The child size is a bit smaller than anticipated. It can stretch to 18"-20" but I think it'd be more comfortable for 17"-19". It is unnecessary to reduce the number of rows when making smaller sizes. Because the piece is worked in negative ease, the stretching helps take up any excess length. Indeed, the excess length is necessary to keep the hat on.

ETA: notes: 20-22" work 48st, 9-10-9-20, start chart on st 8 of pattern.



© 2005 Free for personal use only. Please do not copy or manufacture for sale.
This pattern is not exactly the same as the film's hat and there's plenty of room for reinterpretation if anyone out there wants to make up a different version for sale.